|
Guide to Cutting Tight Spots |
|

|
1. To begin cutting,
always cut the tight spots first. See how the
notches at the neck, under arms and leg/ankle have
been cut away and pulled up with the tip of the
blade. It is
very important to use a good cutting mat for this
project. Pulling against cardboard or other surface
that doesn't contain silicone or nylon will result
in a ratty edge.
Blade tools should
always have a sharp fresh blade installed.
|

|
2. I cut the little 4
slits on the stand pieces before removing the pieces
from the page.
To get a nice curve
on the two stand's cross-pieces you may want to use
detailing scissors.
Do not cut the 4
slits too far into the pieces, but you may need to
make a very thin V-cut to make the stands work. As
demonstrated in step 5's photo, the stand does work.
Use tweezers to assemble the cross-pieces into the
stand.
|

|
3. Here you see how
it is wise to make short cuts starting at the dress
and cut away from it. It is also advisable to
press the blade through the paper rather
than the normal pull the blade through
the paper. |

|
4. Here you can see
how the last move after cutting all the notch type
cuts is to cut the lateral flat cuts. Such as: the
dress bottom edge, top edges of the tabs. |

|
5. When cutting the
hats, cut the slit for the head first. |

|
6. Use the same
cutting techniques on the hats as for the dresses.
It may have been advisable for this piece to have
used detailing scissors along the hat's bottom edge.
It would have been a little smoother looking. |

|
7. This is just
another example of how a piece looks when cuts are
done properly--from dress edge outward.
If you try to cut one
long continuous line following the perimeter with
either a blade or scissors, you will end up with a
very wavy edge. The surface paint will chip off and
the paper will fray and separate in layers. This all
sounds more involved that it really is. I just
wanted to cover every aspect and obstacle.
|
|
|